Riverland Leisure Canoe Tours: Lisa paddles The Murray in the Riverland region of South Australia

The wide streets, grand buildings and evergreen garden stretching down to the River Murray are easily recognised landmarks of Renmark. The unofficial capital of the Riverland, this is houseboat heaven on this stretch of the river.

But things are very different when you head into the maze of interconnecting creeks, billabongs and backwaters just upstream from the town.

We're teaming up with Bob and Hazel West of Riverland Leisure Canoe Tours. They'll hire you a canoe or kayak if you want to paddle yourself or, if you're like me and need a little help, they'll take you on a guided tour.

We get into a rhythm fairly quickly and soon we're powering past the rows of houseboats. I'm pleasantly surprised with just how stable the canoe is… and with Bob, who spent 40 years as a teacher and outdoor education instructor on board, I know I'm in good hands.

Bob West, Riverland Leisure Canoe Tours: "We're in Ral Ral Creek at the moment which is a anabranch of the river. It leaves the river about 30 kilometres upstream and rejoins here. Between the border and Lock Three there are 3 or 4 hundred kilometres of back creeks to paddle around in."

The wetlands are important breeding ground for birdlife. They are part of the Riverland Bookmark Biosphere and are recognised as being of international significance under the RAMSAR agreement.

Bob: "The dead trees ahead are a little bit different to the other dead trees - these have actually drowned."

They were casualties of the locks and weirs that were constructed in the 1920s. They now keep the river at what's called 'pool level'. Before the locks, the trees would have survived on the river's natural rise and fall but the locks meant that low lying areas like this became permanently flooded and the trees died. The old redgums now make ideal nesting spots.

Around another bend we find an important reminder about the people that were here long before European settlers - a canoe tree.

Riverland Leisure Canoe Tour operates seven days a week out of Paringa. They'll hire you a kayak or take you on a tour ranging from a couple of hours to an all day paddle. Bob can even arrange an overnight camp if you wish.

Riverland Leisure Canoe Tours
Paringa
Ph (08)8595 5399

Published 28th March 2010