Primo Estate: Ron meets the La Blondina with Joe Grilli at this Mclaren Vale winery in the Fleurieu Peninsula region of South Australia
Lunchtime with legendary wine and olive oil maker Joe Grilli in the courtyard of Primo Estate. With its sense of style, elegance and purpose, the courtyard, designed by Joe and his wife Dina is a metaphor for all that Joe Grilli and his family have created at Primo Estate.
It's a classic immigrant tale. Primo Grilli came to Australia in 1953 and soon met his future wife Santina. By 1958 Primo had purchased his first market garden on the Adelaide Plains at Virginia. By the late '70s the family had moved into wine and their son, Joe was putting his stamp on the family business. About four years ago Primo Estate moved its headquarters to the world famous wine growing district of McLaren Vale.
The Grillis are no strangers to hard work. From the market gardens of Virginia, they gradually moved from glass house tomatoes to an Adelaide Plains Winery. Son Joe went to Roseworthy College to study winemaking and soon the boys were packing wines in the shed many of which drew inspiration from the traditions of Primo's Le Marche region like the Moda Amarone.
Joe Grilli, Primo Estate: "It's an ancient Italian idea of picking the grapes and drying them to concentrate the flavours."
Joe returned from a trip to Italy full of new marketing ideas including an extra virgin olive oil called the Joseph Range which would complement his new premium red.
Joe Grilli, Primo Estate: "Before we knew it the olive oil had turned into a bit of a monster."
The 80s also saw the Grilli family experiment with new varieties like Colombard. It would prove to be a real hit and would again involve some ancient old Italian know-how.
Joe Grilli: "Because of his background my dad could graft with his eyes closed."
Colombard, botrytis Riesling, moda amerone, they all draw on centuries of experience and so too does the olive oil range. Joe Grilli sources much of his stock from the hills overlooking Aldinga, where the soil profile and the cooling breezes from Gulf Saint Vincent all play their part.
Joe Grilli: "Even though the olive is black, if you squeeze it you can see the pulp is green. There is a similarity to making wine and making olive oil. At the high end of the market we treat it like wine. The variety has an effect, the ripeness has an effect and the place that it is grown has a huge effect. We're trying to make oil that reflects the place and where it's grown."
To spend an hour or so with Joe Grilli in the olive groves and vineyards of McLaren Vale is a privilege not many get to share. But at the elegantly designed cellar door complex you can dip into the oil and wine story and history of the Primo family through what's called the Joseph Experience. For $10 you can taste four Joseph Range Premium wines and two Joseph Range extra virgin olive oils. Make a purchase and the $10 comes off the tab.
It's all a long way from the La Marche region of Italy from where Primo Grilli emigrated all those years ago. But just like the colombard varieties grafted onto old vine stock back in the early 80s, the Grilli family has taken to its new home. The Primo Estate story continues to evolve and you can chart its progress by indulging in the Joseph Experience at the family's state-of-the-art cellar door complex in McLaren Vale. It's open daily. If you have any further questions please email info@postcards-sa.com.au
Primo Estate Wines
The Joseph Experience
$10 tasting
McMurtrie Road
McLaren Vale
Open Daily 11am - 4pmPublished 4th May 2010
