Piccaninnie Ponds Conservation Park: Ron takes in some of the wonders of the depth on the Limestone Coast in the South East region of South Australia

The Limestone Coast in the South East lives up to its name particularly on the Piccaninnie Ponds Walking Trail about 35 kilometres south of Mount Gambier. The trail takes us through what was once a veritable supermarket for the local Boandik people who roamed this country for thousands of years.

These days, most who venture in here do so to dive at the world famous Piccaninnie Ponds but if you're a little less adventurous you'll still find plenty to admire about a small conservation park rich in biodiversity.

And the sound of water is never far away whether it's the gurgling of the creek which is fed by an underground aquifer or the surge of the Southern Ocean where the Piccaninnie Ponds Creek finally ends its largely subterranean journey.

Ross Anderson, District Ranger: "It's a magic spot. You get this meeting of the spring and the sea which is fantastic. It's really important for wildlife as well. It's where the freshwater fish come out to breed and where they can make their way up to the springs again."

And also where tiny mullet fatten up before heading out to sea. This confluence of fresh and salt water environments makes for good hunting and its delights have long been known.

Ross Anderson, District Ranger: "The aboriginal people - the Boandik have carried flint rocks from up to four kilometres away and have worked them here. They grabbed one of the best vantage points which was really close to their food and freshwater."

As we head away from the coast the boardwalk brings us to the ponds themselves - a wide expanse of reed and tea-trees which offer sanctuary for local birdlife. Here the wild ducks skim above and through the canopy while swans take a more leisurely approach to exploring the wonders of the fresh water environment. But to truly understand its charms you need a mask and snorkel and a very good wet suit.

As pull on my wetsuit I asked Ross what the water is and his answer leave little to the imagination. "Between 14 degrees in winter and 15 degrees in summer - it's between cold and cold," he laughed.

The ponds are bracingly cold and crystal clear and as I slip into the water I enter another world. Nothing quite prepares you for the underwater world that awaits in the depths of Piccaninnie Ponds.

However, you need a permit to dive here and for good reason. Back in the 1980s several people died here - a tragedy that led to a series of regulations which prevent most divers from going any deeper than 37 metres. In fact you need a permit for diving and snorkeling but the small cost is certainly worth it.

The experience is breathtaking - literally. Underground water under pressure has found weaknesses in the limestone and over eons has carved out amazing ballrooms. One's called the 'cavern' and another is the 'chasm' which extends about 100 metres below.

Recently the South Australian Cave Divers' Association pushed on down into the magical and claustrophobic world that is Piccaninnie Ponds discovering yet another chamber. It's proof there's still a lot we don't know about this surreal world. Recently three new fish species were also found here.

So for the super adventurous and the less so, Piccaninnie Ponds and its surrounding walk offer plenty of outdoor fun. To access the walk take the road from Mount Gambier to Nelson and look for the signs. For details regarding diving and snorkeling permits contact 8735 1177 or log on to www.environment.sa.gov.au/park and follow the links to piccaninnie ponds. If you have any further questions please email info@postcards-sa.com.au

Piccaninnie Ponds Walking Trails, Snorkelling & Diving
Look for signs off Nelson Road 30ks ex Mount Gambier
Permits 8735 1177

Published 27th June 2010

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