Cape Borda Lighthouse on Kangaroo Island: Lisa visits the "short and square" lighthouse in the Kangaroo Island region of South Australia
Every bit of Kangaroo Island's coastline is a postcard image regularly punctuated by the island's five lighthouses. They were often the first sign of a new home and new life for the immigrants who had spent months at sea. But on the North West corner of KI sits the Cape Borda Lighthouse - a strange block construction which doesn't quite fit the classic lighthouse mould.
Mick Rosewarne, Ranger: "Lighthouses are usually are tall, round tapered, beautiful structures but this one's short and square. The reason is because the coastal cliffs on this part of KI are the tallest in South Australia. They are 300 feet or about 180 metres above sea level so we don't need a tall lighthouse." A short, square lighthouse was quicker, cheaper and easier to build too so in 1858 up went this not so imposing but just as important landmark. And according to National Park Guide, Mick Rosewarne, what it lacks in height it makes up for in other ways…
Mick Rosewarne, Ranger: "This is the last 'real' lighthouse left in South Australia where the lens is still fully intact and still functioning as 'real' lighthouse in 'real' navigation. All the other lighthouses in South Australia, especially that one down at Cape Willoughby down the other end of the island - the are not lighthouses - they are called beacons!"
There's clearly a touch of good natured 'lighthouse rivalry' simmering away here and while Mick loves his job as a National Park Ranger I get the distinct impression that if the light wasn't automated and they advertised for a 'keeper' he'd be first in line.
According to Mick, those 'other' beacons are simply a single globe which blinks on and off - while his 'real' lighthouse has a continuously rotating beam shining forty kilometres out to sea. It's been standing guard over this treacherous tip of Kangaroo Island for 150 years - originally powered by kerosene and converted to electricity in 1932.
Surrounded by fierce cliffs and impenetrable scrub, the families posted here knew all about isolation. You get a real sense of the loneliness and danger faced at the little cemetery four kilometres away at Harvey's Return. Here, simple crosses are solemn reminders of the perils they endured.
Mick Rosewarne, Ranger: "In those days you had diseases like scarlet fever or you get a splinter it turns to blood poisoning and you die. One child fell off the cliff, another one wandered off into the bush chasing a kangaroo to be never seen again. It was a very isolated place in the old days - I wouldn't want to have lived here then - at least I've got a vehicle so I can get out if I had to."
Inside the heritage museum, you get the full picture on why and how this place was built on a lonely island at the bottom of the world - not to mention the obvious significance of its strategic position.
The keepers at Cape Borda also played an important role in protecting Australia from invasion. A canon arrived in 1858 and did an excellent job in keeping the Russians at bay and at 1pm each day Mick fires it to show how.
The cannon was actually used to warn ships in thick fog and later to help them set their chronometers when fired. Its formidable fire-power is still demonstrated daily and remains a high point of Mick's tours of the tiny lighthouse settlement.
As the sun sets over the Southern Ocean you can experience the isolation of Cape Border for yourself by checking into one of the Lighthouse Keepers cottages. There are a range of options with the main cottage starting at $160 per night for 2 people. If you have any further questions please email info@postcards-sa.com.au
Cape Borda Lighthouse
Playford Highway
Kangaroo Island