919 Wines: Ron tastes the work of Eric Semmler - fortified winemaker- in the Riverland region of South Australia

At 919 Wines we caught up with Eric Semmler and he stirred a vat of percolating juice and grape skin. The fruit was from an Italian variety known as Montlpulciano. It's a new variety for the Riverland and for this winemaker it represents another leap into the unknown at a small boutique Berri-based venture making hand crafted wines.

Eric Semmler, 919 Wines: "919 is very much a hands-on operation and we're really striving for specialist quality - really high quality in our wines all the time."

Eric Semmler used to be fortified winemaker at Berri Estates but several years ago he took the plunge and immersed himself in a small husband and wife venture in the backblocks of Berri.

The name 919 refers to the section number deep in the Riverland. It also reflects the ethos of Eric. He and his wife Jenny wanted to make different wines using unique varieties like Vermentino, Tempranillo and Durif… and he also wanted to make wines which reflect the soil profile and the climate of the region or as the French would have it - the terroir. It's been a life changing decision - away from a bigger corporate winemaking approach to something a little more strenuous.

This process will continue throughout much of the day. Aerating the fermenting fruit and then later extracting the juice in one of two presses - one hand made.

Eric Semmler 919 Wines: "I made this press when I was a poor student. Years ago we had to produce student wines and I couldn't afford to spend over $300 for a press so I made my own. The wood is pine and it's coated with bees wax to seal the timber."

It's still used today for overflow work when the larger press is also hard at it. And it highlights this artisan's take on an ancient art in which the winemaker takes a fatherly approach.

Eric Semmler 919 Wines: "I don't know how to describe it. They are like my babies. Through the growing season you're out checking the vineyard everyday to see where it's at. Whether it needs watering, what the fruit is like, how it's developing. What the weather is like."

Many of the wines Eric makes at 919 originate from grapes grown in Portugal, Sardinia, Spain, France and Italy.

Eric Semmler 919 Wines: "When you come to 919 you're getting an education in Mediterranean wines and many that we haven't heard of."

So if you're tasting here expect to hear names like Turiga, Vermentino and Tempranillo. They're all varieties which do well in hot dry climates. They make good tasty wines while needing less water.

Eric Semmler 919 Wines: "Not as much as perhaps some of our traditional varieties and we're also growing at only two tonnes per acre so we can keep the water irrigation level right down."

Under galvo and wood sit barrels of port, sherry and Tokay. Here it's often a case of the hotter the better as French oak and fortifying wines work their magic. Let the winemaker describe the characteristics of the wines while you taste them. It's all part of the experience here at 919 Wines at Berri. It's located on Hodges Road about four kilometres from the centre of town. If you have any further questions please email info@postcards-sa.com.au

919 Wines
Hodges Road
Berri

Published 19th September 2010