R.M. Williams: Keith examines the legend of the Outback region of South Australia

In the Gammon Ranges in the Northern Flinders, the mountainous sanctuary of Arkaroola is an ancient landscape of ancient peaks and massive gorges. Home to the Adnyamathanha people, it's hauntingly beautiful and is brimming with Dreamtime stories and legends. Mining and pastoral fortunes have been made and lost in these hills and every now and then you come across a poignant reminder of those who tackled this country long before we arrived in our comfortable 4-wheel drives.

At Italowie Gorge there's a palm tree that connects this place with fashion stores around the world. It couldn't be more out of place - a palm tree amongst the gums in the shadow of the gorge. It has links with the legendary Australian Bush outfitter, R.M. Williams - this is where it all began.

Born in the mid north of South Australia in 1908, his early years were tough. He was a camel boy for a missionary and learnt his bush skills from the aboriginal people. Come the Depression he found work as a well digger - eventually finding good water at Nepabbuna, where the Aboriginal community was established.

Don Tilmouth, RM Williams Museum: "He was camped in the Gammon Ranges with his young family eking out a living by trying to find water by digging wells for a proposed aboriginal community. He was having a hard time of it living off rabbits and mutton given I guess by people living on the local stations. He started on the leatherwork because he was interested and a man came into his camp and stayed for some time. And he was saddler and a great leather worker whose name was Dollar Mick and he taught RM most of the skills he had."

A self-taught genius in leatherwork, Dollar Mick taught the young Reg how to craft saddlebags, bridles and other leather goods used by local station workers. RM sold his first pair of riding boots for 20 shillings.

Down the road at Iga Warta, a tiny tourist settlement owned and operated by the local Adnyamathanha people, they'll tell you all about the RM story.

Terry Coulthard, Iga Warta: "R.M. Williams started his boot making business just up the road here at Nepabunna and all of the people in the photographs we have on display are related to us. For example, my wife's grandfather is sitting behind a sewing machine."

RM's big breakthrough came when he signed a deal with Sir Sydney Kidman to supply the clothing and leather requirements for the man who would become known as the Cattle King.

That brings us to the famous address in a modest suburban street. Five Percy Street, Prospect is where where Reg set up his first workshop in a woodshed out the back of his dad's house in 1932. It grew into a factory which now houses the R.M. Williams Outback Heritage Museum. Here you can trace how the RM Williams empire spread across the nation and across the world.

The museum is about much more than just the RM Williams story. It's about the people who bought his leatherwork, wore his gear. He loved them - he was one of them - the men and women of the outback.

For a journey through the life and times of RM Williams, visit the museum adjacent to the showroom at 5 Percy Street, Prospect. Don't forget where it all began - the gang at Iga Warta will tell you all about it. They can also organise a unique Flinders Ranges cultural experience to order - from day trips, overnight tours, campfire storytelling to bush tucker and more. It's on the road between Copley and Nepabunna.

R.M. Williams
Outback Heritage Museum
5 Percy St
Prospect

Mon - Fri 9am - 5.30pm Sat 9am - 4pm

Iga Warta
Via Copley
Ph 8648 3737

Published 26th July 2009