MV Loch Luna: Ron experiences the wonders of the backwaters of the Murray River in the Riverland region of South Australia
It was one of those days when the Riverland just turned it on with plenty of sunshine on a lazy afternoon that stretched out before us. And so too did the river with its sense of endless possibilities as we headed downstream from Kingston-on-Murray, 250 kilometres from Adelaide.
At the wheel of the MV Loch Luna is Carl Doubikin, a former loans officer with a major bank in Adelaide up until five years ago when a river change caused him to swap one bank for another.
As if on cue a whistling kite comes into view, sweeping across it's watery home before perching atop a dead gum tree. The whistling kite is one of the most feared predators in this domain - a raptor to be reckoned with. But even up here it has its enemies - and in this deceptively peaceful setting deception is a daily part of survival.
Scan the treetops and you'll see many whistling kite nests. Many are not used and serve as decoys for goannas and other predators who go to extraordinary lengths - or on this case - heights for no return at all.
In fact this idyllic setting belies each bird's constant battle for survival - with the darter of "snake" bird as it's known using ungainly every trick in the book to simply stay alive.
Carl Doubikin, Loch Luna Cruises: "They can actually climb trees and they will build a nest over water so if a predator comes too close they can just drop out into the water. And they can hold their breath for over a minute - under water - they can swim and swim and you don't know where they have popped up again."
On the first part of Carl's Loch Luna Cruises we glide by on the main river channel - but with tantalising glimpes into a more secret world. Every so often you get a sneak preview of what to expect in the Loch Luna Game Reserve.
For millennia wetlands like these - when full - sustained the local aboriginal people and signs of their presence are everywhere.
Carl Doubikin, Loch Luna Cruises: "That's a canoe tree there. They would cut their canoes on the south side of the gum tree because that has the least amount of sunlight to allow the tree to repair and regenerate.
For the local aboriginal people this would have been a veritable supermarket as it is today for the ubiquitous pelican. They reckon you could funnel up to three kilos of fish into this guy's mouth and he could still take off and get airborne.
As the name suggests Loch Luna Game Reserve provides plenty of game come duck shooting season - but for much of the year it remains a haven for a stunning array of birdlife... From pelicans and swans to the beautiful lapwing and Eurasian Coot.
Soon we turn off the main channel into what's called Swan Lagoon. Much of this was permanently flooded in 1920 when Lock 3 was built creating a permanent pool of water, which drowned the many river redgums.
At one point we jump off the MV Loch Luna to take in a living gum that's at least three hundred years old and has survived the locks and weirs and the wood cutters who felled much of this country for the paddlesteamers.
To book your trip on the MV Loch Luna contact Carl Doubikin on 8583 0155. It's a three-hour trip through one of the highlights of the Riverland and at just thirty dollars per person - its fabulous value. If you have any further questions please email info@postcards-sa.com.au
MV Loch Luna Cruise
Tours depart Kingston-on-Murray
250 kilometres ex Adelaide
$30 per person
Bookings 8583 0155