Customs House (The) Marina, General Store and House Boat hire: Amber experiences some of what the Murray river has to offer in the Riverland region of south Australia
There are lots of different ways to enjoy our iconic River Murray. For many South Australians a holiday shack is part of everyday life. If your budget doesn't stretch that far you can take to the water in comfort on a variety of tour boats. If you prefer to go at your own pace there are plenty of anabranches and backwaters explore.
And then, there is a houseboat. Hundreds of houseboats operate up and down the river ranging from small intimate boats for couples to luxurious multi-bedroom palaces like the one we tried out from the Customs House Houseboats fleet.
Based half an hour upstream from Renmark, it's the only houseboat company operating north of Lock 6. Being only 500 metres from the South Australian - Victorian border, it holds a very important place in Australia's pre-federation history - the old Customs House.
It was a sight the old river traders used to dread. When the Murray was the interstate highway linking three states they'd have to stop here and pay duty on their goods. And it wasn't cheap - one shilling (or ten cents) for a single sheep and as much as four dollars for a horse. River skippers hated the imposts and often tried to smuggle goods across the border.
Jill Dale, Customs House Houseboats: "If you didn't stop they'd fire shots across the bow of the boat to make you stop, if you proceeded you would wake up further down stream the next morning with your boat listing to one side because they'd fire or punch holes in the side of your boat overnight and your boat would be slowly sinking on you. So they were pretty serious about collecting the revenue obviously…"
The reception is a little more welcoming these days as Jill Dale and her partner Paul Kennedy operate the Customs House as the last supply stop on the river between here and Wentworth 200 kilometres upstream.
River accommodation has certainly improved - the Customs House fleet is a lot more luxurious with all the mod cons you'd expect of a five star hotel. And the scenery? Well, it's 10 star!
Cruise just 500 metres upstream and we come to a sign on the riverbank marking the South Australia - Victoria border.
Paul Kennedy, Customs House Houseboats: "OK, so we've just passed the Victorian Border on the right hand side of the river so from now on Victoria is on the right and side, South Australia is on the left hand side. And we need to split the river in half as well so water on the right side belongs to Victoria and the left hand side belongs to South Australia. So at the moment there's no catching cod on that side, we can catch cod on that side and if you want to fish on that side you need a Victorian fishing licence. But not for South Australia you don't need a fishing licence…."
Little wonder we can't seem to agree on who really controls the river! But when you're cruising on a waterway like this it's easy to forget about the politics involved and simply make the most of the locks and weirs that keep the river at so-called pool level.
At the end of the day, you simply pull in to the shore wherever you fancy. A houseboat is the ultimate way of enjoying the river. And all you need to captain one of these floating palaces is a drivers licence or motorboat licence. Your accommodation and transport is all here - that means you have all the freedom you need to explore the river - or do a whole lot of nothing. And when you wake up to a spectacular sunrise on the Border Cliffs - why wouldn't you?
Customs House Houseboats operates a number of boats ranging from 6 berth to 12 berths. Their general store, marina and camping ground are about 30 minutes drive from Renmark. Contact Jill and Paul toll free on 1300 55 77 06. If you have any further questions please email info@postcards-sa.com.au
Customs House Marina and General Store
Via Renmark
Toll free 1300 55 77 06Published 18th October 2009
