Poltalloch Station: Lisa visits this drought affected location in the Fleurieu Peninsula region of South Australia
There's no mistaking the effects of the record drought on the lakes at the end of the River Murray. There are beaches where there shouldn't be and the usually lush adjoining farmland is dry and parched.
But in a good season the land around this area can produce prime livestock. Over the decades fortunes have been won and lost on the backs of sheep and cattle grown on this fertile land. One of the real success stories of that era can be found at Poltalloch Station. Built in 1876, this beautiful Victorian mansion is living proof of the immense wealth generated in the area in the early days of the young Colony.
Poltalloch sits proudly on the southern shore of Lake Alexandrina - Australia's largest freshwater lake. Settled in 1839 by a canny Scot, it's a world away from its namesake in the Scottish Highlands. But the grand two-storey homestead built on a limestone rise with views over the lake marks the beginning of the Bowman era. While his nephew was building the equally grand Martindale Hall near Clare, John Bowman was carving out his patch here.
Beth Cowan: "The house was started in 1879 and was a bit of a bachelor's pad because John Bowman wasn't married until 1880. He was someone who worked hard, made his money as a pioneer and he probably thought this was his last stop so he built a house that was appropriate for him."
John Bowman's great, great grandson, Chris Cowan and his wife, Beth are keeping the dynasty alive although these days it's prime Angus cattle grazing on the lake shores - instead of tens of thousands of sheep.
The shearing shed was the first and most important building to go up in 1876 and it's like walking into a Tom Roberts painting.
Beth Cowan: "The sheer size of the shearing shed says a lot about Poltalloch. They were shearing up to 40,000 sheep here some years. There were 22 shearers - 11 on each side so they needed to get a wide expanse. As a result the roof is double arch roof is quite architecturally unique.
"All of our buildings are made out of iron and stone because there wasn't any wood for building. All the timber in here for the pens etc had to be brought in on the paddlesteamers. So, to build the roof, they decided to bring flat sheets of corrugated iron and curve them on site. The self-supporting arch means they didn't have the problem or logistics of having to get big beams in. It's the only double arch shearing shed you'll see anywhere."
John Bowman's initials and the date carved into a keystone over a doorway are reminders of the early confidence he had in the area. He was here for the long haul. Some years it took three or four months to sheer the massive flock and as many as 500 bales of wool would be stacked in here awaiting the paddlesteamers.
The original station jetty was twice as long as the present jetty and was a vital link for supplies across the lake from Milang or Goolwa. Even today there's a sense of loneliness and isolation but in the mid 19th century Poltalloch was so remote it had to be self-sufficient. That's why the village green is flanked by the stables, blacksmith shop, a carpentry workshop and even a station shop where workers could buy goods between paddlesteamer visits.
Almost every building, rock and stone has a place in Poltalloch's history and many of the cottages are available as accommodation. The Overseer's House and Station Hand's Cottage are all fully self-contained and each has its own story - like the Boundary Rider's cottage. It used to be on an isolated shore of Lake Albert.
Beth: "It's typical kit home which cold be ordered from England in flat packs. They'd put them together like a big jigsaw puzzle so when they needed to move it they just pulled it apart and reassembled it."
Beth is rightly proud of Poltalloch's pastoral heritage and shares it by running public tours around the village and various outbuildings. It's on the shores of Lake Alexandrina. Watch out for the turn-off to Poltalloch Road on Highway One between Tailem Bend and Meningie.
You can book a tour or arrange a stay in one of the Bed and Breakfast cottages by contacting her on 8574 0043. Please email info@postcards-sa.com.au if you have any further questions.
Poltalloch Station
Narrung near Meningie
Ph 8574 0043Published 4th May 2008
