Wilpena Pound: Ron explores the Outback region of South Australia

Take one of the many scenic flights over the central Flinders Ranges and you'll be left wanting more. From up here you can make some sense of the geological chaos of Wilpena Pound and the ABC and Heysen Ranges below.

But on the ground maps are essential for the army of sightseers who come here each year - and why not? The options at Wilpena are many and varied.

The camp ground is set on the banks of Wilpena Creek and should you like your creature comforts there's always the Wilpena Resort tucked away in the shadows of the Pound's impressive eastern ramparts.

Both are run by the Rasheed family who have had a long connection with this country going back to when Kevin Rasheed took over a little rustic chalet in the bush.

For his son Keith, it was trip into the unknown which has left a lasting impression even though there wasn't much here then.

"There was not much more than a tin shed that accommodated about twenty people. Nice intimate little dining room and lounge," said Keith.

The Bert Bond tour parties made their way here on dirt tracks - these days the road in is sealed but there's still plenty of options.

One of the most popular and family friendly walks is along Wilpena Creek to Hills Cottage. Out here water was gold - the lifeblood for brave settlers like the Hill family who established a property on the banks of the creek. They successfully grew wheat in the heart of the pound at the turn of last century. But growing a wheat crop was one thing - getting it out was quite another.

Hauling wagon loads of bagged wheat from here to Hawker was a logistical feat in itself made all the more difficult when raging torrents washed away the road at places like Sliding Rock

"They had a couple of big floods which destroyed all the tracks they put in," said Keith. "It all became too hard."

The Hills were not the only ones to try their luck here. A few kilometres from the Pound entrance the walking and cycling tracks bring you to what remains of Wilpena Station. Today the kangaroos and parrots graze on paddocks once stocked with mobs of sheep. In time the pastoralists would learn the hard way that fragile country like this can only produce so much.

"They overstocked it through ignorance," said Keith. "They attempted to grow wheat out here and a couple of droughts knocked things around a bit. Then rabbits came. It's probably taken til about the late 1960s to recover."

Its fragile beauty is still here for all of us to enjoy - a country so vast and spectacular that it can't help but inspire the jaded traveller.

"There's a feeling in this country that it's timeless," said Keith. "To come out to places like this and just slow down, recharge the batteries…"

The Wilpena Pound Resort and Caravan Park is located near the entrance to the Pound. To book contact 8648 0004. Wilpena is a good five-hour drive from Adelaide. If you have any further questions please email info@postcards-sa.com.au

The Wilpena Pound Resort & Caravan Park
Near entrance to Wilpena Pound
Bookings: 8648 0004

Published 17th June 2007