Renmark on the Murray: With Keith Conlon in the Riverland region of South Australia
Renmark is the first town on the South Australian section of the Murray River about 100 kilometres downstream from the NWS/Victorian border. It is the first town in the Riverland and it's still the biggest.
Renmark is an attractive introduction to the several irrigation towns on the long South Australian stretch of the river. A string of 'firsts' continues in its wide streets, impressive buildings and expansive gardens that stretch right down to the river. In pride of place is the grand Renmark Hotel. The British Empire's first community-owned pub it put the sly grog shops out of business in the days of prohibition.
Hop on board one of Allan Carthew's Renmark River Cruises and you'll hear about a few other firsts. "Renmark was the first irrigation settlement that was ever established in Australia - really by default," said Allan.
In 1887 The Chaffey brothers arrived from North America - wooed by a Victorian offer to establish an irrigation settlement upstream at Mildura. When the plans stalled, the South Australia Government did some fast footwork and tempted them to Renmark instead.
The story of Renmark's transformation from sheep country to fruit bowl starts at Olivewood, a homestead strangely built of logs. It was the home of the third Chaffey brother, Charles who obviously wanted a reminder of his Canadian roots. The grandeur of it all epitomises the optimism of the irrigation boom he began.
One hundred and twenty years later the Chaffey legacy is still going strong. The irrigation system they began now nurtures vineyards and orchards as far as the eye can see. It's a multi-million dollar citrus and stone fruit industry.
Not to mention the region's first winery. Angoves, famous for its brandy and the first company internationally to bring us the cheap and cheerful wine cask, is still a growing force domestically and abroad.
Back on the river with Allan and we cruise past a very important fixture on the bank. "The two pumping stations coming up on the left are vital to Renmark," said Allan. "The smaller one is with the blue boxes on top is our town domestic water supply and the other one with the gantry is for the irrigation water. You can see from the size there's a lot more water used for irrigation purposes than there is for domestic.
"The Paddlesteamer Industry tied up at the wharf is one of the old paddlesteamers that used to operate on the Murray. It was commissioned in 1911 and spent its time pulling trees out of the river. It pulled over a million of them in 57 years of operation."
Tenacious volunteers have restored this grand old workhorse. And they take great delight in stoking up the old boiler once a month for a voyage back in time. I've been lucky enough to give them a hand - and I can tell you it's an honour and a privilege - in short bursts!
"We often talk about the paddlesteamer era being a romantic time but I'd say it was also a lot of hard work," said Allan.
It certainly wasn't all plane sailing that's for sure. In a drought riverboats were left high and dry up and down the Murray - wreaking havoc with the river trade. That's not the case now though - thanks to the locks and weirs along the river. They create a series of lakes that vary little - as long as water is available from upstream to supply millions of people, water a giant food bowl... and provide the playground for another industry - tourism.
Renmark is the home of the houseboat industry. Back in the 1960s, Ian Showell saw houseboats on the Nile. He returned to Renmark and did a similar thing here using tractor engine and 44 gallon drums. Now, it's a multi million dollar industry.
Defining the upstream edge of Renmark, Ral Ral Creek is an entrance to another world. We've deliberately downsized into Fleur and Allan Carthew's tinnie for an experience best taken quiet and slow. We pass the ghost-like dead trees standing stand guard in the floodplains and turn off the main river and into another world...
"These are all anabranches," explained Allan. "They don't actually bring new water into the river - they take water out and bring it back in again further down stream."
Soon we're into a maze of islands, creeks and lagoons... with exotic names like, the Big Hunchee, the Bulyong and Dead Man's Creek. The creek gets narrower and shallower - in places it's hardly ankle deep. It twists one way, then the other... then back on itself. I'm Glad Allan knows the way out.
We come across Bob West of Riverland Leisure and Canoe Tours in his kayak. He knows his way round too and regularly brings paddling parties in here and says they can't believe this is all so close to town.
Tours into the vast floodplain and backwaters reveal the wild side of the Murray - both the strength and the fragility of the whole system.
Allan Carthew's Renmark River Cruises has a range of cruises available from his Big River Ramble, where I can recommend the scones and cream, to a backwater dingy expedition. For bookings call 8595 1862.
The PS Industry is moored at the town wharf alongside the local Visitor Information Centre. It's open daily or can you hop on board for a ninety-minute cruise on the first Sunday of the month.
Renmark River Cruises
Allan Carthew
Bookings 8595 1862PS Industry
Moored at Renmark town wharf
Open Daily Cruises on first Sunday of the monthPublished 22nd July 2007
