MV Expedition on the River Murray: Keith enjoys a voyage in the Riverland region of South Australia

The MV Expedition looks like a giant ghostly prehistoric bunyip as she casts off from the banks of the River Murray at Blanchetown. It was nighttime when we boarded but her bright floodlights lit up the river as she headed towards our overnight moorings further downstream.

After a peaceful night's rest, the River Murray sunrise greeted the passengers with its usual poetic, absorbing marvel. We're only 100 or so kilometres from Adelaide but we could be a million miles away as the river and the myriad of life it supports slowly stirs.

That applies to us too. After a hefty breakfast, passengers are free - in fact, encouraged to go ashore. They'll even supply you with a mountain bike if you want.

The MV Expedition is aptly named because on board life is punctuated with these regular expeditions onto dry land. Our Captain, Max Lindsay begins the day by offering a casual walk through the floodplains of Portee Station. He revels in his 'pied piper' role. As a long-term student of the Murray's secrets, he has much to share with his willing guests.

After a short stroll through the undergrowth, we stand at the base of a huge gum-tree, which bears the scars of the floodplain's earlier inhabitants. Everyone is intrigued as Max explains how the indigenous aborigines carefully cut away a huge slab of bark from the tree to make a bark canoe.

Lessons like this are an integral part of the MV Expedition experience. Our 'Captain with an ecological bent' is passionate about the river and its history and he's keen to share it with anyone who'll listen. There's even a class about the colloidal clay beneath our feet, which was washed all the way down from the Darling.

"When the clay dries out it cracks," explains Max. "The cracks open up, the wind blows seeds off the trees into the cracks. When it rains, the clay expands and closes up. With a bit more water we hope it germinates."

A nearby stand of river redgum saplings on the edge of the wetlands is proof of Max's lesson. They are a legacy of a 1990 flood. Everyone agrees that we need it to happen again.

Soon, we're back on board, and the river's ever-changing scenery puts everyone under its spell.

This is familiar territory for the MV Expedition. It's actually been plying these waters for 25 years. Some will remember her as the Proud Mary but with a spruce up, paint-job and a new name she's beginning a new chapter interpreting the riches of the river.

We visit Max in the wheel-house and comment that he's got a pretty nice office. "I reckon it's the best office in South Australia," he laughed. "Who else has got a view like this?"

As max describes the ancient cliffs at Swan Reach over the boat's PA system, the passengers soak up the views and the commentary.

The health of the river is never far from the general conversation and the captain's underlying message is the importance of the river to all Australians. With all the news about the drought and historic low flows, some of the interstate passengers are surprised there's any water here at all!

"I have said many times that the Murray River in South Australia is the best kept secret in Australia," said Max. "People just don't realise how beautiful it is."

Talk to the passengers and that certainly seems to be a common theme. "I was surprised that the river was so wide down here in the bottom half in South Australia," said Peter.

"It's an eye opener because we don't realise what's down here. We've got Sydney Harbour, but we don't have anything like this. It's a real eye opener..." said another Sydneysider.

"One lady who does a lot of cruising said to us 'oh you'll be terribly bored! There's nothing to do!' said Janet. "But that didn't put us off. We thought we'd see for ourselves and it's been really an eye opener. There's so much to do and so much to see…"

Our journey continues with the next overnight stop opposite the towering cliffs at Big Bend. Some opt for another off-boat experience in a smaller punt and explore one of the many backwaters and byways.

We've only been on board for a couple of days but we've seen and learnt a lot. A cruise is no longer just a cruise - it's a real river experience.

In its first quarter of a century this boat attracted more than 70-thousand passengers onto the Murray. Now with a new identity a whole new wave of people are being attracted to the river. But some things remain constant - friendly crew and good tucker!

The MV Expedition offers a number of cruises from two to five nights. It departs from Murray Bridge. Contact River of Australia Expeditions for details. If you have any further questions please email info@postcards-sa.com.au

MV Expedition
River of Australia Expeditions
18 Grenfell St Adelaide