William Creek

If you've ever wanted to really understand what the outback is like. Wanted a place where in summer it feels like the ground is about to explode. Wondered where the line between living and surviving is... then you've always wanted to find this place. "Welcome to William Creek. I'd like to take you on a short tour of the town. This is the main street also known as the Oodnadatta track - about 200 kilometres that way is Marla. This is the William Creek Hotel, also the William Creek Motel and the William Creek Camp Ground and the William Creek Public Swimming Pool. Here is the William Creek Service Station, the William Creek Golf Course (which is basically one big sand trap) and the road continues that way to Coober Pedy about two hours away. This is the William Creek Hotel car park which also doubles as and airport." That's because it's easier to fly into this place than drive through the dust. But that's one of the more sensible aspects when you consider the satellite public phone cost close to a million dollars to install. There's no creek at William Creek ... the people having a tinny were from Switzerland. 36 degrees inside the pub seems like air conditioning compared to the 49 degrees clocked up outside ... it's enough to send you barking.

"This country around here could kill you if you are not prepared, the stress is negligible but it's a top place to be." Mal and Macca, as they are known, both worked in Melbourne up until a few months ago, they travelled the outback and after a chance conversation they swapped sides of the bar - going from tourists to publicans. "So far we're handling it but for the hours and we need a cook." The coro and timber building is wallpapered with markers, a work card from a Dutch journalist, a student card from America and various other items from people around the world. Each tells a story, such as Roger and Diane Kerr whose motorcycle trip across Australia had to stop at William Creek for 3 days, 50 beers and a new clutch. It's such and effort to get to this place that there's an overwhelming desire to be part of the giant visitor's book. Outside there are three motel units, a campground and a honeymoon suite. Not far away is Lake Eyre but that's another story. "This is the outback, this is Australia, some people think it's just sand and spinifex out there but it is a magical country!" Dorothy McKellar couldn't have put it better.

William Creek Hotel is two hours from Coober Pedy and a bit further north of Roxby Downs. Motel units, and camping ground are available and also a basic bunk house for twelve people. For more information please email bookings@williamcreekhotel.net.au or visit www.williamcreekhotel.net.au