Whales at the Head of the Bight : with Jennifer Ashcroft on the West Coast in the Eyre Peninsula region of South Australia
The Eyre Highway is a long and barren stretch of road. But take a detour just 12 kilometres south of The Head of the Bight and you soon realise the nearby Southern Ocean is teeming with life.
The imposing ramparts of the Bunda Cliffs begin about three hundred kilometres west of Ceduna and stretch for another hundred k's out into the distance. They provide a safe haven and protected breeding spot for Southern Right Whales who've been migrating here for thousands of years.
"The females come here to calve and the males come here to mate with the females so it's quite a hive of activity," explained the Head of the Bight Manager, Greg Limbert. "They migrate here from Antarctica and they hit the Australian coastline here and make this their home for a number of months"
This year, they've arrived a few weeks early and already over 100 whales have been counted including thirty calves, which don't seem too shy about showing off.
"Naturally, over a five year cycle there tends to be more coming in the fifth year," said Greg. "Fortunately for us this is the fifth year. The researchers are still doing a lot of work on that but it does appear a little cyclic with numbers so we're really fortunate this year."
This season there's an extra special arrival - a young albino. Though rare, it's the second of its kind in recent years.
Greg manages the Head of the Bight on behalf of the Yalata community. He says on a warm day up to 150 people will visit - many from interstate and overseas.
"It's really lovely to just come out here and see the whales on the doorstep of Australia," said Gordon and Emily Quantock of Canberra. "You drive across the Nullarbor and there's 1,000 miles of occasional trees and suddenly there's something really interesting to see"
"Just seeing them in their natural environment … is very exciting". added Daniel and Matt McKenzie of the Barossa Valley
A few years ago, you could sit on the edge of these cliffs and watch the whales swim beneath you. Now, they're observed from the safety of viewing platforms. But the whales are still incredibly close - some less than one hundred metres away and you can actually hear them breathe.
"From that point of view it's unique that you're elevated above the whales which come in so close to the cliff face, so it's quite a unique view." said Greg.
Whale watching facilities have been upgraded, to make the experience even more enjoyable. A recently completed boardwalk allows tourists to come within metres of the action - without disturbing the whales' natural behaviour.
There's also a new visitor centre, about a five-minute stroll from the water's edge, which has useful information about the whales. A female can weigh in at 70 tonnes, about twenty tonnes heavier than the males. And their journey from Antarctica is slow going - just four kilometres an hour!
It's not surprising then, that by the time they arrive at the Bight many just want to relax in the sunshine and live off their fat stores for up to six months while they mate, give birth, nurse, and protect their young.
It's hard to believe these magnificent creatures were once a prime target for hunters. But since being protected, their numbers have been increasing by about eight per cent each year.
The whales will remain at the head of the Bight for another two to three months before embarking on their return journey south to their feeding grounds in the sub antarctic"
Entry to the visitor centre costs $8 for adults and $6 concession. Children under 12 are free. If you have any further questions please email info@postcards-sa.com.au
Head of Bight Whale Watching Centre
25km from Nullarbor
Ph (08) 8625 6201
Entry gates open 8am to 5pm
