The Glenelg River on the Limestone Coast : Lisa is off to the South East of South Australia
On a serene section of the gorgeous Glenelg River on the Limestone Coast, the Nelson Endeavour swings into view. The boat tours run by the McBain family duck in and out of South Australia on a river which winds its way from the Grampians in Western Victoria all the way to Nelson on the Victorian coastline.
We jumped on board at historic Donovan's Landing on the South Australian side of the border. A quick check of the map reveals only a small dogleg of the Glenelg creeps into SA but it contains some of the real treasures like the town of Donovans itself and nearby Reed Bed and Dry Creek with their DIY holiday retreats.
Soon we reach the border and poke our nose into Victoria where our skipper, Donald McBain points out some cave in the sandstone cliffs.
"Back in the 1880s some Chinese market gardeners from Mount Gambier climbed into the caves." said Donald. "They found the caves were half full of bat droppings that were millions of years old. They made up a windlass and used it to mine the droppings and take it back to Mount Gambier for their market gardens."
Donald is a former crayfisherman who traded in his fishing licence to become a tour operator his son, Harvey. They now have three vessels - the old crayboat, Pompey's Pride, the Endeavour and the Nelson Explorer. All offer a quiet and leisurely ride and bring travellers up close to the limestone cliffs that dominate the South Australian section of the Glenelg.
Some are eaten away by hidden aquifers that replenish the river with a steady supply of underground water.
"Occasionally the mouth of the river gets blocked," said Donald. "But over 4 or 5 weeks the streams and springs flowing into the river increase the level almost a metre and that breaks out the sand bar and things get back to normal."
That can make life interesting for the shackowners who have boatsheds and holiday houses on the water's edge. But their tenure over their ramshackle constructions is already under threat with moves afoot to remove the structures as their leases expire. It's all about improving the river environment but no doubt there'll be a few broken hearts when families are forced to vacate their pieces of prime waterfront real estate.
"The tourists on the boat love to see the shacks," said Donald. "When we come round the corner in summer time people think we're in the Mekong Delta with all the boat sheds sitting up on poles. They are quite fun."
The Glenelg is one of the longest tidal estuaries in southeastern Australia and the tidal waters push sixty to seventy kilometres upstream.
Being an ex fisherman Donald has some great fishing tales from his days on the crayboat and even a few from his adventures on the Nelson Explorer. Like the day a concerned women called out from one of the shacks.
"She said my fishing rod is floating out in the middle of the river - could we retrieve it for her," said Donald. "We gaffed the fishing road and there was a five pound mulloway on the end of the line."
We weren't the only ones enjoying the Glenelg River. Around the next bend were some school kids from Ballarat paddling into Donovans. They said the trip through Glenelg National Park impressed both students and teachers.
"It's remarkably untouched countryside," said one of the teachers. "The kids were up at 6 o'clock this morning sitting down on the jetty at Lasletts writing some reflective work on the sights and sounds."
The town of Donovans got its name from Old Tom Donovan who came here as a farmer in the late 1870s. His big claim to fame was shooting the famous Tantanoola Tiger that is now on display at the Tantanoola Hotel.
"I think it was a Syrian Wolf and they believe that it came off a ship that was wrecked," said Donald. "It used to attack flocks of sheep along the coast between here and Tantanoola."
It's just one of Donald McBain's fascinating tales on a fascinating trip up river from Nelson. You can book a cruise at the wharf or contact Nelson Endeavour Tours.
Glenelg River Cruises
Nelson Endeavour Tours
Phone (08) 8738 4191If you have any further questions please email info@postcards-sa.com.au
