Gawler Ranges: On the Eyre Peninsula in the West Coast region of South Australia

Travel the backroads of Eyre Peninsula communities like Wudinna, Minnipa and Kyancutta and you'll see plenty of truly classic Australian farming scenes. We saw plenty like a sheep dog keeping his mob in check and harvesting equipment standing ready for another busy year ahead. All of it was framed by ancient monoliths way out in the distance - The Gawler Ranges.

The newly declared National Park contains some of the oldest rock formations on the planet. One of the largest was named by the explorer Edward John Eyre during an attempt to cross from South Australia to the West. He called it Mount Sturt, his way of honouring another great adventurer Captain Charles Sturt. From it's southern base you take in the great sweep of salt lakes that drain into the Corribbinnie Depression. Geoff Scholz, of Gawler Ranges Safaris explains:

“The Gawler Ranges are all volcanic and they cover an area of seventeen thousand square kilometres. I understand the whole thing happened at one time. It would have been spectacular.”

It still is today but what you see now are the remains of a massive formation. This is just a small part of what's known to geologists and the mining companies as the Gawler Craton. With endless tracks providing endless vistas of an ancient volcanic madness it's little wonder that more and more four-wheel drive enthusiasts are making their way into the Gawler Ranges National Park.

“I think the intrigue is that it changes so much seasonally. Everyday you come out you only have to drive a few kilometres and you'll see a different landscape. And the other thing is that it’s so rich in wildlife.”

In fact it's one of the few places in the country where you'll see three of Australia's five kangaroo species in the one location. On our tour with Jeff Scholz we came across Western Greys, Reds and Euros all making the most of the salt bush and scrub.

The National Park was declared in 2001. For about one hundred years it was a sheep grazing property. The friends of the park have now restored old Panney Homestead. This century old piece of South Australian farming history is available to rent for those who want a holiday with a difference. The neighbors certainly aren't a bother - after all they're 50 kilometres away.

From low-lying scrub to more heavily wooded country the park is an ever-changing array of scenery. But the ranges serve as a constant reminder of this part of Upper Eyre Peninsula's volcanic past. An example is the formation known as the Organ Pipes - one of the Park's most popular features.

In one great volcanic upheaval, the earth's core spewed forth creating molten madness, which, over time, has set in cathedral-like spires in the South Australian bush.

“The rock is known as Ryolite. It's some of the oldest on the Australian continent. And the reason it's been formed in these amazing shapes is all to do with the rate of cooling so many millions of years ago.”

Step over these rocks with guide Geoff Scholz and you realise you're stepping back in time.

“These rocks are supposed to be around one point five billion years old. If you like they are the bare bones of the Australian continent - maybe the world.”

Ancient bones in an ancient and spectacular landscape. Just one of the many memorable sites to enjoy on one of Geoff Scholz Gawler Ranges Safaris.

He runs regular tours and can be contacted via email at info@postcards-sa.com.au