Touring the Dudley Peninsula on Kangaroo Island: Ron explores some of the Kangaroo Island region of South Australia
Cruise to Kangaroo Island on board the Sealink 2000 and you'll dock at Penneshaw, the largest town on KI's Dudley Peninsula. About ten kilometres from your arrival point is an aptly named B&B - "The Lookout", with panoramic views back to the mainland.
It's also the base for Outlook Tours run by Malcolm Kleemann. He'll take you on a three-day adventure around of Kangaroo Island's hot spots including the icons for which this holiday haven is rightly known like Remarkable Rocks and Admiral's Arch.
But I was keen to explore the hidden gems of the Dudley Peninsula, at the lesser-known eastern end of the island. Here, the story of remote settlers is everywhere provided you know where to look. Our first stop was Lashmar's Lagoon.
"The Lashmars were some of the first settlers in this area," explained Malcolm as he led me to a couple of solemn graves surrounded by white lilies. "Jane Lashmar died of tuberculosis in 1866. Thomas Clarke was a captain who bought land and retired here. He simply died of old age. "
From on high, we look down on Lashmar's Lagoon. You can see why it's sought after farming country but the waters of the Lagoon also feed a much sought after camping destination, the Chapman River which weaves through an enchanted forest of ancient paperbarks.
Many families have pitched their tent on the banks of the Chapman and gone in search of a feed of bream. For Malcolm and I it's a great setting for lunch.
The sandbar across the Chapman River was holding firm the day we walked onto Antechamber Bay. It's one of the island's many stunning beaches, with the Saint Albans light way out in the distance. But why is the water of Antechamber Bay so blue?
"It's caused by the sandstone and limestone mixing together," said Malcolm. "And, of course, there's no pollution."
And no people. Not a footprint to be seen on what is one of the State's most beautiful stretches of coastline. This was all once party of the Lashmar's property but soon we're driving down one of the island's most stunning entry points to another KI gem, the Cape Willoughby Lighthouse - home away-from-home for a pioneer descendant cum ranger, Wren Lashmar.
"This is known as one of the windiest places in South Australia," said Malcolm. "And that's why the lighthouse was built here on the eastern most tip of the island.
"Back in 1849 a number of sailing ships sailed around here to Cape Willoughby with eighteen stone masons on board. Some of them were from the island and some from the mainland. They were here for two and half years building the Sturt Light.
"They used whatever rock they could find - lovely granite rock. All they had to do was cut it. They used star chisels and hammers to make holes in the rock. They'd plug the holes with wood and keep it wet. The wood would expand and split the rock."
Building the Sturt Light was quite a feat and so too convincing the lighthouse keepers and their families to stay. According to Ranger, Wren Lashmar, Isolation was always a problem and many a lighthouse keeper would succumb to the effects of a strange and debilitating malaise.
"The light weighs approximately two tonnes and sat on a bed of mercury. The keepers would need to top up the mercury and they got mercury poisoning. The slow intake would build up in their system."
That helps explain some of the bizarre stories about lighthouse keepers losing their minds.
It would have been enough to drive a man to drink. Thankfully, the cellar door across the road is a relatively recent Cape Willoughby innovation. It is home to Dudley Partners Wines, one of the founders of the island's emerging wine industry.
"We've got our famous Shearing Shed red because that's where we started," said Val Howard at the Dudley Partners Cellar Door. "We didn't have a winery back in 1997 - we only had a shearing shed.
Today Dudley Partners Cellar Door makes the most of intoxicating views over Backstairs Passage - the perfect accompaniment to the sumptuous platters on offer. And as our Dudley Peninsula adventure draws to a close, Malcolm Kleemann takes us back near Penneshaw and Baudin Conservation Park. Here some of the furry locals have their last meal for the day. There's more than enough for both mum and bubs.
Baudin Conservation Park is a great place to spot the island's tamar wallabies especially round dusk. Malcolm Kleemann will take you there on one of his Outlook Adventures. To book contact Malcolm on 8553 1048. If you have any further questions please email info@postcards-sa.com.au
Outlook Adventures
The Lookout B&B
Contact Malcolm Kleemann
Ph (08) 8553 1048Published 24th Sept 2006
