Diving with the sharks on the West Coast: Keith enters the domain of the Great White in the West Coast region of South Australia
South Australia's coastline is as diverse as it is extreme. From the giant daunting walls of the Bunda Cliffs that stand guard over the Head of the Bight to the gentle hills of the Fleurieu Peninsula that roll down into Backstairs Passage.
But venture below the waves and you enter a marine domain with more diversity that the Barrier Reef.
This vast water world holds an unquenchable fascination for Abyss Pictures' Brenton Dean and Carly Maple. Every chance they get they're underwater filming the myriad of bizarre and strikingly beautiful creatures down here like the leafy sea dragon. Their award winning documentary, "The Vanishing Dragon" gave us amazing insight into the life of our state marine emblem.
But today, they're helping us track down something not quite so fragile - the awesome Great White Shark.
Our search takes us to the North Neptune Islands, about seventy kilometres south west of Port Lincoln. We're on board the luxury cruiser 'Calypso Star' and we're in safe hands - our skipper, Rolf Czabayski is a legend in these waters.
A former game fisherman turned conservationist, for the past twenty years Rolf has been giving thrill-seekers one of the biggest 'buzzes' of their lives - the chance to meet a Great White - up close.
Within a couple of hours we reach our destination. It's the crystal clear waters in these parts that make it a popular location for shark spotters, photographers and camera crews from around the world.
Anticipation and in trepidation begin to rise as Rolf and his crew lower the shark cage into the water. Next, in goes Rolf's own special berley brew to attract some interest. But that's just for 'starters'.
As Rolf throws in a big chunk of fish he explains it's part of the process. "We get the bait and throw it into the water and the first sign of a shark is when the bait is gone, we know then we'll have a shark here."
Now we wait - could be five minutes, five hours or it could be days - the Great Whites answer to no one. They're attracted to the waters around North Neptune Island by the ready supply of 'fast food'. Every year about 6-thousand New Zealand Fur Seals are born here making the colony easy pickings.
"Look, there's a shark," yells Rolf. "Eleven minutes, that's the first shark. Unbelievable!"
For the divers, the moment of truth has arrived. It's time to meet one of the most feared and respected creatures on our planet. "How do you feel?" asks Rolf. "A bit nervous but I can't wait," replies a diver.
Hearts are pumping and adrenalin flowing as a haunting three metre Great White circles the cage just waiting for the opportunity to strike at the bait. Just as another diver gingerly climbs into the cage, a massive 5-metre shark appears.
Soon the water is a blur of razor sharp teeth, powerful jaws and slender fins as five more sharks appear. And in the middle of it all a handful of divers feeling grateful and privileged to come face to face with such a massive, powerful creature.
"That was phenomenal," said one climbing back on board. "It was absolutely beautiful, never been up close to one. It's a wonderful experience. I mean he's right there, beautiful, fantastic."
"They are a wild animal," Rolf explains. "They are in a wild kingdom."
Rolf's enthusiasm for these creatures is infectious and he's keen to share his encyclopaedic knowledge. "I have tagged nearly 300 sharks myself. The last one we tagged disappeared the very next day and went towards Western Australia. Another shark we tagged went to St Vincent's Gulf, then to New South Wales, then over to Queensland so its amazing, the way they travel, how many kilometres they do."
You can see Rolf's a passionate man when it come to Great Whites. And after their close encounter, the divers reckon they know why. You don't have to go in the cage though - the experience from on deck is just as thrilling.
"The Great White Shark is very special because of the simple reason he has no fear of anyone. No fear whatsoever. He comes close up to the cage and it's such a graceful animal. It can be very quick and it can be very docile so each shark has a different character…"
If you want to find out and see one for yourself - below water or on deck, contact Calypso Star Charters in Port Lincoln. Or check out their website. If you have any further questions please email info@postcards-sa.com.au
And keep a look out for more great wildlife film from Abyss Pictures.
Calypso Star Charters
Port Lincoln
Ph (08) 8364 4428
www.calypsostarcharter.com.auAbyss Pictures
North Adelaide
Ph (08) 8267 1862Published 24th Sept 2006
