Building a Brick Oven at Russell’s Restaurant with Lisa: In the Fleurieu Peninsula region of South Australia

There's a strange macho phenomenon taking place amid the vines of McLaren Vale as blokes commandeer the family oven - even if it means building a new one outside.

We caught up with Carl Mills as he was checking on the progress of a turkey he was cooking in his backyard oven and I can assure you the aromas wafting over the courtyard were very enticing.

Not to be outdone Carl's father, Dean has gone one better. He’s built a deluxe model complete with ornate tile inlay and granite bench top. It's admired by many Willunga locals who are looking to emulate the work of these two qualified "brickies". “The tip is to be very patient,” said Dean. “You need to take it very easy.”

They recommend getting hold of a book entitled, “Your Brick Oven - Building it and baking in it.” It’s written by Russell Jeavons, the man behind the legendary eatery in Willunga's main street. Here the brick oven is king. Russell began using the oven inside 14 years ago when he left the complexities of work as an "a la carte" chef for a much simpler life.

“You need to keep your eye on this type of cooking,” said Russell. “You have to use observation and your brain and be there. It's about being present.”

At Russell's the microwave oven has been replaced by something as old as civilisation itself.

“How it works here is we've got less complexity and more interest. A bit more depth in what we do and we can do simple food.”

The food might be simple but it's always delicious - from the salads sourced from the backyard garden to the pastries that Russell whips up before patrons arrive and the wonderful breads.

In the gospel according to Russell the commandments for building a brick oven are laid out alongside his overarching philosophy. And that's all about connecting with food - especially blokes.

“They love building stuff especially something of their own design and inspiration,” said Russell. “It's very exciting to do that and there's not many opportunities to do that. We used to be able to stand around cars and look under the bonnet but nobody does that anymore because we don't know what's going on anymore. We can't pull anything to bits. (This) is simple and we can get in touch with it and do it ourselves.”

Building the oven is merely stage one. Then comes a lifetime of cooking for the family.

“Your Brick Oven” by Russell Jeavons is on sale at all good bookstores. If you want Carl and Dean Mills to build one for you contact them on 0408 430 769. Russell’s restaurant is in the main street of Willunga. If you have any further questions please email info@postcards-sa.com.au

“Your Brick Oven - Building It & Baking In It”
By Russell Jeavons
Available at major bookstores

Brick Oven Builders
Carl & Dean Mills
Ph 0408 430 769

Russell's Restaurant
13 High St
Willunga
Ph (08) 8556 2571